If you’re keen to visit Mexico, but are looking for a path less trodden than Tulum or Cancun, Oaxaca and its nearby coastline are a travellers dream. Serving up culture, colour, hard-to-beat gastronomy, and plenty of mezcal, here’s our guide to navigating the lively city and its coastal gems.

Oaxaca

Pronounced WAH-HA-CA (not OH-ZAH-CA), Oaxaca City is a short 45 minute flight from CDMX, or you can get a small plane via Aerotucan from Puerto Escondido if you’ve been exploring the coast. The airport immediately makes things easy as there are lots of shared mini bus taxis ready to take you to where you’re staying and the city centre is only 20 minutes away.

Stay

The Hotel Escondido is beautiful - think cool cement floors with terracotta walls, indoor/outdoor lounging dotted with lush green plants, and design-led interiors. This hotel is the definition of quiet luxury and is an oasis (one of the only spots with a pool) in the centre of Oaxaca. If you just want to visit for the day, a day pass includes use of their small pool and can be redeemed on food and drinks.

Boulenc Bed & Bread is a rustic 4* boutique hotel and the offshoot of the city’s best bakery. With a hidden bar and rooftop terrace serving up pastries and cocktails alike, it’s a day-to-night dream.

For an AirBnB try Creole House in the same property as the Criollo restaurant. It has the same sleek Mexican design and the breakfast and snacks from their chefs are a delight.

Do

Visit the Mezcaleria Lalocura, a beautiful independent mezcal farm and brewery in the countryside a taxi ride away. This farm is much less touristy than the other mezcalerias (you may want to avoid the large group tours within a bus shaped like a giant bottle of mezcal). This one offers casual, private tours, generally offered only in Spanish. Even if yours is rusty, it’s well worth the drive to see how the plants are grown and how they create the signature smoky mezcal flavour. Beware of the tasting which offers 14 different mezcals to try!

La Cocina de humo is a one of a kind, female-founded culinary experience, set in an outdoor traditional kitchen and solely using traditional Oaxacan cooking methods such as a comal. Try local specialities including horchata, tamales, tlayudas and many different forms of mole.

Eat - Street Food

Oaxaca is often referred to as the culinary heart of Mexico, and is well-known for three things; mezcal, chocolate and mole (a rich dark sauce made from chillies and spices). You’ll find all three in abundance wandering through the city.

Another must-do culinary experience in Oaxaca is the Pasillo de Humo or ‘Smoke Hallway’. Veggies beware, this is effectively a giant barbeque of meat housed in the chaotic Mercado 20 de Noviembre. Upon entry, the smoke will hit you in the face while the various vendors fight for your business. You order your different meats from one spot, tortillas from another and condiments and garnishes from another, though it all feels bizarrely coordinated.

Tacos Roy have three outlets in the city, with classic taco flavours, an incredible El Pastor and bistec c/ queso.

Stroll out to Nieves el Moy on a hot day to get a nieve to cool you down- a slushie in different local flavours. The family run business is so friendly and welcoming, encouraging you to taste all of the flavours and try your best with your Spanish. The maracuya flavour is delicious.

Memelas Dona Vale is tucked away in the Central de Abastes Mercado, a bit of a walk from the historical centre of town. This market goes on for days, with so much to see. You’ll need to ask along your way for Dona Vale as she’s quite hard to find but once you spot the crowd of people you’ll know you’ve arrived. Dona became popular after the Netflix documentary Taco Chronicles: Latin America for her signature corn mamelas with egg and special salsa which are a delicious breakfast or afternoon snack.

Eat - Restaurants

Levadura de Olla is a sister restaurant to the Cocino de Humo. Also based on traditional Oaxacan cooking methods, this spot has a beautiful courtyard dining area and a room filled with tomatoes of various shapes and sizes. Atoleria is a beautifully calm terracotta space that serves up various types of atloe (warm, corn-based drinks). Head here after dinner if you’re having a night off the margaritas and michelada, and try the rooftop terrace at Casa Oaxaca for more upscale Mexican dining.

Coffee

Boulenc coffee shop sits within a beautiful shaded courtyard and offers brunch classics with Mexican flavours. The adjoining bakery is the best in the city for pastries. Kun, selling local trinkets with a couple of sun drenched seats outside is a great spot for your morning coffee, or try Muss Cafe and enjoy a smoothie bowl on the terrace.

La Punta , Puerto Escondido

Puerto Escondido is an overnight bus or short, private flight from Oaxaca through Aerotucan. Alternatively you can fly direct from Mexico City. La Punta has a relaxed atmosphere with surfers, backpackers, bars, cafes, and surf shops along the main street.

For laidback living, stay at The Bikini Beach House, a unique option with indoor-outdoor accommodation. The Penthouse has an outdoor kitchen and living area, an open, mezzanine bedroom with views over the pacific and another enclosed master bedroom. Casa Joseph is another gorgeous hotel with oceanfront suites if you’re looking for luxe. In the evening, surfers, locals and tourists gather at the beach to enjoy the sunset, music, and drinks. Try the delicious fish tacos and margaritas at the Fish Shack and visit Chicama for delicious Peruvian food and vibey Cumbia music.

Visit Casa Wabi, an architect's residence and art center with a spectacular 312-meter-long concrete wall designed by the famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando.

Mazunte

An hour from Puerto Escondido, Mazunte has a more chilled-out vibe. Take a swamp tour at Laguna Ventanilla to see alligators, iguanas and other local wildlife. Visit the Mexican Turtle Center to learn about nesting and help baby turtles to reach the sea. Walk up to Punta Cometa for sunset to enjoy the spectacular view over the sea with drinks and music.

Zipolite

Just a 15-minute drive from Mazunte, Zipolite is bigger and becoming more popular because of its great surfing and official nude beaches.

Stay at Casa Sol, which is owned by the same people who have The Red Tree House in CDMX. Set on a cliff with amazing views of Camaron Beach, the rooms are comfortable with ocean view terraces - some even have hot tubs and private pools.

Enjoy a boat trip from the nearby harbour to see turtles and stingrays and learn about local marine conservation projects. Visit local shops like some of the handwoven bag stores where you can pick your colours and shape yourself or Mezcaleria Gota Gorda to taste their range of mezcal. Come back here at night when it transforms into a cocktail bar. Lastly, you shouldn't miss having dinner in the sand at El Alquimista, enjoying delicious fresh fish and tacos in the candlelight. The hotel rooms here are also gorgeous if you’re looking for a little luxury.

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